Chimz recommended Mayoka Village Lodge, and at first my German ear was irritated since the name of the lodge sounded two familiar – Mallorca, pronounced almost identically, is such a popular tourist destination for Germans. The cottages and bathrooms (ours was separate) are built on rocks all the way up from the waterline. Make sure not to drink too much – some of the stairs are rather steep!
We were lucky – the last cottage was ours, and a crowd of people was here who were all on their way to Lake of Stars. So this was the opening night then, and we enjoyed great live music with those self-made banjos that are peculair to Malawi. I forget the name of the player, though – askies! -, but in a second set Lazarus joined in.