Still in Lilongwe: Kubwinja Ethnic Lodge
On the outskirts, near a dam with a fisher village right across a lake, is Kubwinja Ethnic Lodge. You may rent a round-hut there, or simply do a day trip and listen to the drummers while enjoiying some braai (bbq). Eventually I tried my hands on a drum, but I must say Chewa drumming remains tricky! The speed rquires extreme precision. You can get near by minibus, and do the rest by bicycle taxi.
Bicycle taxis are one a staple in Malawi. They cater for villages a couple of kilometres away from the main roads.